Handloom Products under ASOMIÔ Brand developed by Assam State Rural Livelihoods Mission.
The Northeast is home to various types of silkworms. Eri, Muga and Tassar are the most commonly known and utilized variant of silkworms that are cultivated for the purpose of clothing. It is indigenous to the North-Eastern Region of India due to its humid weather. In extreme humid conditions, young-age worms have a vigorous growth. Silkworms feed less in dry conditions as the leaf withers faster resulting in food wastage. If the temperature is apt, preferably 26°C - 28°C, the growth of the silkworm is stable. This type of climate makes the north-eastern region, particularly Assam, an extremely suitable state for rearing silk.
It is for this reason that Assam with its humid weather, unique plants and a few special variants of moth give the people of Northeast the silk that can be reared. The quality of the silks in Assam namely Eri, Muga, Tassar, Mulberry and Mejangkori, is impeccable.
The Muga silk is called the golden thread of Assam. The silkworm, Antheraea assama, is indigenous to the region of Assam. The process of production of the Muga silk is a traditional vocation and is an inseparable aspect of Assamese culture. The muga silkworm builds a cocoon that creates a naturally golden coloured yarn. A few of Muga’s best known qualities are its long-lasting ability, the strength to protect the skin from ultraviolet rays and its durability. The fabric that the Muga yarn produces is so strong that the Muga silk fabric was worn as a piece of battle armor for the Ahom army. Just like its history, the fabric too can be handed down through generations in a family. The longevity of the Muga silk fabric is estimated to be 100 years and a fabric that softest over time.
The Eri silk which comes from the Eri Silkmoth scientifically named Samia ricini is also known as the ‘ahimsa’ silk. The term ‘Ahimsa’ meaning non- violence, represents the cruelty free production process from silkworm to silk yarn. The humid atmosphere of the region makes Eri silkworm easier to grow and populate for six seasons in a year. This particular worm feeds on castor leaves or cassava which is easily found in the soil of Assam dues to its fast-generating capacities, making it easier to domesticate. This particular silkworm is easily and very conveniently produced in every rural household in the NE region in the right seasons. The uniqueness of this fabric is that, if the Eri yarn is reared as thick yarns, the fabric becomes extremely warm for the winters. But if the yarn is reared in a thinner count, the fabric becomes cool and suitable for warm weather. This duality of the yarn makes the Eri fabric a sought-after fabric in Assam. The Eri Silk creates a luxury fabric material that can be produced in every household in the right conditions.
Working with these unique silk moths and silk yarns are the countless hardworking farmers and weavers of the Assam. The practice of Sericulture and Handloom has been in the lives of the people since time immemorial but due to the increase of tea estates, pesticide sprays and pollution a drastic decrease in silk farming has been witnessed after the fall of the Ahom Kingdom.
Mejangkori Silk comes from the silkworm Antheraea assama that feeds on the Mejangkori tree, Litsiea Citrata. Assam is a land of unique flora and the Mejangkori tree is one of its exceptionally unique examples. To name a few of Mejangkori’s qualities the seeds that the tree produces are considered medicinal. In the past, the Mejangkori tree leaves and seeds played a huge part in the ethno-medicinal practices in the Northeast. The branches of the tree are such that can be used as firewood without drying in the sun, thus becoming a favourable tree for the rainy days in the Northeast. It has been recorded that from the pre-historic times the tribes of Assam have practiced silk rearing in the trees namely Sum, Suwalu and Mejangkori. But with the systematic deconstruction of the regions’ economic growth, the practice of rearing silk has declined and the offset of this decline has been the disappearance of the knowledge surrounding the Mejangkori tree. Hence over time, the tree was declared extinct. After 60 years, the Mejangkori tree was rediscovered in 2011 by Silk enthusiast and writer, Kaberi Kochari Rajkonwar in the deep jungles of Charimuthiya, Lakwa, Charaideo. The tree itself is short and bush-like, and its leaves are long and thin. It grows to become fully matured within three years for silkworm consumption. The seeds of the tree, branch and the leaves have a unique sweet smell that can surround a whole village. It is with this natural sweet scent that the location of the tree was discovered. As Dr. Satyendra Nath Chaudhary said in his writing of ‘Muga Silk Industries, 1981’, ‘the Mejangkori tree: it’s leaf emits a fine smell wherever it exists’. The uniqueness of the tree is immeasurable and so is its silk.
While the silkworms that feed on Sum and Suwalu tree produces a golden colored yarn, the Majangkori leaves produces a silverish white colour which is unlike any other silk produced currently in the North East. Historically, this silk was worn only by the Royal family and the ministers due to its strength and glamour. The ‘Paguri’ of the King and the ‘tongali’ where the sword rests is made of the Mejangkori Silk fabric. The longevity of this fabric that comes from the Mejangkori tree is assumed to be more than that of the Muga Silk. Dr. Niren Bharali has written that if the tree is revived in the plains of Assam, then the possibility of restarting the past glorious production of the Mejangkori Silk can be brought into the daily lives of the people.
Unde r the influence of the Assam Silk History, Kaberi Kochari Rajkonwar rediscovered the Mejangkori tree and began her journey of revival and reservation. Currently, the Nava Nirman Kendra in Charimuthiya Lakwa, Charaideo has conserved almost 300 Mejangkori trees creating Assam’s first Mejangkori Garden after decades. Under the guidance of Kaberi Kochari Rajkonwar and Rajib Rajkonwar, the silk farmers of Charaideo Silk & Argo Producer Company Ltd. were able to successfully produce 5000 silk cocoons for the 1st time in record after 300 years. With the limited 5000 silk cocoons, the weavers were able to produce two precious pieces of Cheleng Chadar. In the company’s road to bring the historic Mejangkori silk to the people of Assam, the weavers and silk rearers of Charaideo has gotten countless support from Assam State Rural Livelihood Mission (ASRLM). ASRLM has started planting the Mejangkori Trees by training and handholding around 500 numbers of farmers from the Charaideo and Sivsagar District of Assam.
Assam is home to some major ethnic groups. Different clothes used by them has enhanced the richness of fabrics made under the brand ASOMI (the umbrella brand of ASRLM. Further, to go with the flow, the Self Help Group weavers under Assam State Rural Livelihoods Mission has started using power looms for better market captivity with increased production. At least 1000 weavers are constantly working in every District under ASRLM for their self-consumption purpose and sell in the market, both local and national or international.
Popularly weaved clothes are : Mekhela Sador, Riha, Seleng Sador, Gamusa, Saree, Dokhona, Aronai, Pajar, Gale, Stole, Yardage etc.
Value added Products available under ASOMI brand are: Jackets under different motifs, bedsheets, bed covers, cushion covers, mufflers, shirts, curtains, etc.